Nikon D7000, Playback

There are a couple of options for reviewing your video once you have finished recording. The first, and probably the easiest, is to press the Image Review button to bring up the recorded image on the rear LCD, and then use the OK button to start playing the video. The Multi-selector acts as the video controller and allows you to rewind and fast-forward as well as stop the video altogether

If you would like to get a larger look at things, you will need to either watch the video on your TV or move the video files to your computer. To watch low-res video on your TV, you can use the video cable that came with your camera and plug it into the small port on the side of the camera body (Figure 10.3). To get the full effect from your HD video, you will need to buy an HDMI cable (your TV needs to support at least 720HD and have an HDMI port to use this option). Once you have the cable hooked up, simply use the same camera controls that you use for watching the video on the rear LCD.

If you want to watch a video on your computer, you will need to download it using Nikon software or an SD card reader attached to the computer. The video file will have the extension .avi at the end of the filename. These files should play on either a Mac or a PC using software that came with your operating system (QuickTime for Mac and Windows Media Player for PC).

Plug your cable into
Figure 10.3 Plug your cable into this port to watch videos on your television.


Canon PowerShot G12, Manual Focus for Anticipated Action

While I utilize the automatic focus modes for the majority of my shooting, there are times when I like to fall back on manual focus. If I know when and where the action will occur, I want to capture the subject as it crosses a certain plane of focus. This is useful in sports like motocross or track and field events, where the subjects are on a defined track, or when you’re setting up a fast-moving shot. By pre-focusing the camera, all I have to do is wait for the subject to approach my point of focus and then start firing the camera.

Zoom in to be sure

When reviewing your shots on the LCD, don’t be fooled by the display. The smaller your image is, the sharper it will look. To ensure that you are getting sharp, blur-free images, make sure that you zoom in on your LCD display.

To zoom in on your images, press the Image Review button located above the LCD display and then turn the Zoom lever clockwise to zoom (Figure 5.4). Continue turning the lever to increase the zoom ratio.

To zoom back out, simply turn the Zoom lever counterclockwise.

Another option is to enable the Focus Check review feature, which displays a smaller preview of your full image but also includes a zoomed-in portion; move the Zoom lever to quickly increase the size of the portion to check the image’s focus.

Zooming in on your image helps you confirm that the image is really sharp.
Figure 5.4 Zooming in on your image helps you confirm that the image is really sharp.

Safety Shift

The G12 includes a feature that injects a little automation into the Tv and Av modes if you choose to enable it. (Press the Menu button, scroll down to Safety Shift, and use the Right button to turn it On.) Regardless of what mode you choose, Safety Shift adjusts the shutter speed or aperture to achieve a balanced exposure. So, for example, if you’re shooting at 1/400 but the environment is too dark even at the largest aperture, the camera knocks the shutter speed down to 1/60 (or whatever value works). To be honest, the only reason I can surmise for why you’d want to use Safety Shift instead of switching over to Program (P) mode is to be able to get shots that unexpectedly veer into darker situations (such as patches of dark shadows in an otherwise sunny day) without constantly adjusting your shutter speed or aperture. I’d rather maintain control over shutter speed or aperture and take my chances with a higher ISO to avoid a blurry shot.

Canon EOS 60D Review Your Photos

Digital cameras are amazing because of the immediate feedback you get after taking a photo. You can make changes to the exposure and white balance and see the results on the LCD Monitor to instantly tell if you got the shot you wanted.

Your camera, out of the box, will have a very short review time—that is, when you take a photo and it shows up on the LCD Monitor, you will see it for only a few seconds. I like shots to stay on until I decide to keep shooting or turn off the camera,
so I have it set to the Hold setting. This setting allows you to review the image you photographed for as long as you like (lightly pressing the Shutter button will get you back into shooting mode and turn off the LCD Monitor). Note that this option will drain your batteries faster than the default setting.


Canon EOS 60D Review Your Photos

  1. Press the Menu button and use the Main dial to select the leftmost menu tab.
  2. Using the Quick Control dial, scroll down to Image Review and press the Set button (A).
  3. Scroll down to Hold (or whatever setting you prefer) and then press the Set button once again (B). (If you don’t
    want the LCD Monitor to show an image after each shot, then just set the review time to OFF.)
  4. Press the Menu button to leave the menus and continue shooting.

Now that you have the image display set, let’s check out some of the other visual information that will really help you when shooting.

When you press the Playback button on the back of the camera, you will see the default screen, which shows only the image and no information (Figure 1.11).

If you press the Info button while in the default playback screen, then you will see basic information on your image, such as shutter speed, aperture, exposure compensation, and image number (Figure 1.12).

display modes

The third display, which appears after you press the Info button again, will take you to the Shooting Information Display. This shows you more details, such as your white balance, camera mode, and file size, and offers more information about your image than any of the other display settings (Figure 1.13).

The last display will give you detailed histogram information (Figure 1.14). This is useful if you need to see each individual color channel, but I find that the basic histogram display in the Shooting Information Display is sufficient for most images.

display settings

If you prefer one display mode to another, press the Info button until you reach the display mode you like best; if you leave it in that mode, you will see your images in that display mode every time you press the Playback button. I usually use the default display (Single Image Display) and will sometimes click through the display modes if I need to view more information about a specific shot.


Simply put, histograms are two-dimensional representations of your images in graph form. There are two different histograms that you should be concerned with: the luminance and the color histograms. Luminance is referred to in your manual as “brightness” and is most valuable when evaluating your exposures. In Figure 1.15, you see what looks like a mountain range. The graph represents the entire tonal range that your camera can capture, from the whitest whites to the blackest blacks. The left side represents black, all the way to the right side, which represents white. The heights of the peaks represent the number of pixels that contain those luminance levels (a tall peak in the middle means your image contains a large amount of medium-bright pixels). Looking at this figure, I can see that the largest peak of the graph is in the middle and trails off as it reaches the edges. In most cases, you would look for this type of histogram, indicating that you captured the entire range of tones, from dark to light, in your image. Knowing that is fine, but here is where the information really gets useful.

When you evaluate the histogram that has a spike or peak riding up the far left or right side of the graph, it means that you are clipping detail from your image. In essence, you are trying to record values that are either too dark or too light for your sensor to accurately record. This is usually an indication of over- or underexposure. It also means that you need to correct your exposure so that the important details will not record as solid black or white pixels (which is what happens when clipping occurs). There are times, however, when some clipping is acceptable. If you are photographing a scene where the sun will be in the frame, you can expect to get some clipping because the sun is just too bright to hold any detail. Likewise, if you are shooting something that has true blacks in it—think coal in a mineshaft at midnight—there are most certainly going to be some true blacks with no detail in your shot.

This is a typical histogram, where the dark to light tones run from left to right. The black to white gradient above the graph demonstrates where the tones lie on the graph and would not appear above your camera’s histogram display.

The main goal is to ensure that you aren’t clipping any “important” visual information, and that is achieved by keeping an eye on your histogram. Take a look at Figure 1.16. The histogram displayed on the image shows a heavy skew toward the left with almost no part of the mountain touching the right side. This is a good example of what an underexposed image
histogram looks like. Now look at Figure 1.17 and compare the histogram for the image that was correctly exposed. Notice that even though there are two distinct peaks on the graph, there is an even distribution across the entire histogram.

This image is about three stops underexposed. Notice the histogram is skewed to the left.

This histogram reflects a properly exposed image.


If you prefer to view your images quickly and more than one at a time, you have the option of viewing them in Index Display. To do this while in review mode, just press the Index button a few times (A) and you can view up to nine images at a time (B). To view any image up close, just highlight it, press the Set button, and it will bring you back to the default display mode.